Yes, I AM in Morocco, part IV

Fez. This is the farthest we are going. We bought our bottles of water and had a very pleasant half hour ride on the train from Meknes. Via email, our hotel host told us to beware of people posing to be tour guides, of people telling us our hotel was no good, or closed. Everywhere we have been on this trip there have been guides, wanting to show us around for money. What we've learned is that they will take us to shops owned by their relatives, pressure us to buy. It is true, too. Our hotel arranged a guide for us, which we thought would be the smart thing to do, instead of getting some random person off the street. We told him no shopping, that we wanted to see the medina, the tannery, and the handcrafts. We're glad we hired him, the medina here is huge, twisting, a labyrinth. It was wonderful to see. Parts of it date back to the 9th century. The guide said there's never been an earthquake or a fire in the medina. But as the tour went on, we hurried past stalls where tin was being hammered, where looms were zooming, clothing sewn. We did get to the tannery, finally, and our guide abandoned us for awhile, left us to the tannery guide, who explained just a little about the dyeing process for the skins, but then led us all over his shop so that we would hopefully buy a purse, a bolster for our feet, a jacket. I told the guide I was ready to go back to the hotel, my feet were tired, my stomach was growling. He said ok, but just one more stop. Rob had asked him where we could buy some saffron, so I assumed he would take us there. Instead, he took us to a carpet warehouse, where there was huge pressure to buy a carpet. What pattern do you like, tree of life or tribal? What color, do you want it woven, knotted, or berber? I can sell you this rug for so cheap, so cheap you wouldn't believe it. No? But look at this rug, 360,000 knots per inch square meter (I know, huh?) Look, here, here is how we will ship it, look at this small bag, straight from our door to yours. The rugs are an investment, look, it increases in value and in your old age, you can sell it for so much. The more you walk on it the softer it gets. And on and on. I kept saying no, no, no, I don't want a rug. Finally we left. I was done with not only Fez, but with Morocco too. It was such a frustrating experience. I was an American, I wanted to be nice, to leave them with good thoughts of Americans. I should have left as soon as I realized their intentions, to not just show us some pretty rugs, but to Make Us Buy one.
Back at the hotel, we ate dinner. Salad this time was 9 small plates of various things. Dinner was a chicken tajine with nice, simple saffron rice. Then came some pastillas, which I couldn't/wouldn't eat because of the wheat. Bed time was such a relief!
The next day was much better. We set off on our own and found some bottled water and a bank (dirhams go flying out of the pocket, the withdrawal limit is 2,000 (about $250) and everything, including hotel, is paid in cash). Then we wandered past a huge garden, part of a palace, and into the Jewish quarters, called the mellah. A couple people said, "closed, nothing to see." And really, there wasn't. But it was quieter there, away from all the bustle, and we found a nice cafe where we could sit and have some mint tea and coke. We meandered back to our hotel dar, relaxed in some chairs on the inner balcony, and then hailed a taxi for dinner. We had decided to eat in the newer part of town. I couldn't believe how many hundreds of people were outside. As soon as the sun sets, everyone goes out to do their shopping and visiting. Few Moroccans actually eat at restaurants. We were dropped off near the restaurant, but weren't quite sure where it was. Fortunately an older gentleman saw that we were lost, and he guided us there. He didn't even ask for a coin! At the restaurant we were the only people for a long time. We had great food, steak in a wine sauce, lamb, and french fries. And the best part--a whole bottle of wine. It's not easy to find places here that serve alcohol. As usual, when we left we grabbed the remainders of our bottle of water so that we could brush our teeth and have a bit to drink at night.
Now I am caught up. Today we go back to Casablanca via train, tomorrow we fly to Madrid, and monday morning we fly to Munich. I can't wait to get back home!